文登学酒在威海非常的畅销,而且口碑很好,走进颐阳酒业公司厂区,一股特殊的有别于酒香的香味便扑鼻而来,沁人心脾。用传统的方法自己制曲,是文登学酒的一大特点。
何为酒曲?曲在《辞源》的解释为酒母,酿酒或制酱的发酵物。通俗地讲,酒曲就如同我们蒸馒头时所用的“引子”、“酵母”,酒的质量如何跟酒曲的关系重大。四千多年前,中国人就开始应用霉菌糖化谷物进行酿酒,由此发明的酒曲是我国劳动人民对世界酿酒界的一大贡献。“若作酒醴,尔唯曲蘖”,说明酿酒必须依靠酒曲的作用。“看米不如看曲,看曲不如看酒,看酒不如看浆,浆者酒母也。”正是这个道理。从这一点上讲,文登学酒坚持用传统方法自己制曲,不仅是对中国传统酿酒工艺的传承,而且从根本上奠定了文登学酒永恒不变的品质。
据有关技术人员介绍,酒曲是多种微生物的大聚合,是酿酒发酵的原动力。要酿酒必须制曲,制曲实际上是扩大培养酿酒微生物的过程。一般先用谷物为原料来富集微生物制成曲,再用曲促使更多的谷物经糖化、发酵酿成酒。曲的好坏直接影响着酒的质量和产量,因而要出好酒必须用好曲。在有关人员的介绍下,笔者初步了解了文登学酒制曲的工艺过程,令人惊奇的是,整个制曲过程从小麦的磨碎到成品曲,竟有13道工艺,且环环相扣,缺一不可。
踩曲作为制曲的一道重要环节,是一项既辛苦又复杂的工作,里面颇有讲究。首先是其严密的组织形式及相互配合的工作方式。制曲车间有一“监工”,由公司有经验的人担任。制曲工人有严密的分工,有人专门量原料和水,有的专门拌料,有的专事搬运。曲面装入木模,由踩曲工踩实。踩曲工有十几人甚至数十人之多。每人规定踩几脚,如第一人连踩三脚,第二人接过去即翻一面,再踩三脚,第三人又接下去,最多时一块曲需经过10人的踩制。然后由专人取出木模,还有专门的人从事曲块边边角角部位的踩制,专人负责修曲,使曲块平滑。“酿酒是一份艰辛的过程,文登学酒滴滴来之不易。”于海先说。技术人员告诉笔者,这样严密的踩曲组织系统,其目的是为了踩制高质量的块曲。踩曲最重要的是要使曲块紧密,一方面是为了减少曲块在搬运过程中破碎,更重要的是曲块的紧密程度直接或间接地影响酒曲中所繁殖的微生物。
制块曲所用的曲模,采用砖形,这也是几十年来颐阳酒业公司的经验积累所得。颐阳人认为这是一种最佳的几何形状。经多年的试验,他们根据曲面的黏性、曲块水分的蒸发需要、散热的需要、踏制时的力量大小、曲块堆积的需要、搬运的需要等而确定的。这一古老而传统的踩曲方法,文登学酒多年来一直在延用。据技术人员讲,前几年他们也投资购置过机械压曲,但效果并不理想。脚踩曲是一种感觉、是一种经验,是机械所不能企及的。从某种意义上讲,越是传统的、越是古老的,就越具有生命力和吸引力。曲块成型后,送入曲房进行培育。在密闭的曲房内,微生物开始繁殖,并散发热量,温度的升高又加速水分的蒸发,使整个曲房内温度和湿度都上升。笔者跟随工人刚踏进曲房,一股热浪扑面而来,在里面只呆了一小会儿,已是汗流浃背。光着上身的工人刘师傅告诉笔者,文登学酒曲的培养温度可达50~60℃。这是制曲的最佳温度。
Wendeng Xuejiu is very popular in Weihai and has a good reputation. When you walk into the factory area of Yiyang Wine Company, a special aroma different from the aroma of wine will hit your nose and refresh your heart. Making koji by yourself using traditional methods is a major feature of Wendeng Xuejiu.
What is koji? The word "koji" in "Ciyuan" means yeast, a fermented product for making wine or sauce. In layman's terms, koji is like the "starter" or "yeast" we use when steaming steamed buns. The quality of wine has a great relationship with koji. More than 4,000 years ago, the Chinese began to use mold to saccharify grains for winemaking. The koji invented by the Chinese working people is a great contribution to the world's winemaking industry. "If you make wine, you only need koji and yeast", which shows that winemaking must rely on the role of koji. "It is better to look at koji than rice, it is better to look at wine than koji, and it is better to look at pulp than wine, because pulp is the yeast." This is exactly the truth. From this point of view, Wendeng Xuejiu insists on making koji by traditional methods, which is not only the inheritance of traditional Chinese winemaking technology, but also fundamentally lays the foundation for the eternal quality of Wendeng Xuejiu.
According to relevant technical personnel, koji is a large aggregation of multiple microorganisms and is the driving force of wine fermentation. To make wine, koji must be made. Making koji is actually the process of expanding the cultivation of winemaking microorganisms. Generally, grains are used as raw materials to enrich microorganisms to make koji, and then koji is used to promote more grains to be brewed into wine through saccharification and fermentation. The quality of koji directly affects the quality and output of wine, so good koji must be used to make good wine. Under the introduction of relevant personnel, the author initially understood the process of making koji in Wendeng Xuejiu. Surprisingly, the entire koji making process, from wheat grinding to finished koji, has 13 processes, and they are closely linked and indispensable.
Stepping on koji, as an important part of koji making, is a hard and complicated job, which is quite particular. The first is its strict organizational form and mutually coordinated working method. There is a "supervisor" in the koji making workshop, who is an experienced person in the company. The koji makers have a strict division of labor. Some are specialized in measuring raw materials and water, some are specialized in mixing materials, and some are specialized in handling. The koji surface is put into the wooden mold and compacted by the koji tampers. There are more than a dozen or even dozens of koji tampers. Each person is required to tread a certain number of times. For example, the first person treads three times in a row, the second person takes over and turns the koji over, treads three times again, and the third person takes over. At most, a block of koji needs to be treaded by 10 people. Then a special person takes out the wooden mold, and there are special people who tread the edges and corners of the koji block, and a special person is responsible for repairing the koji to make it smooth. "Winemaking is a difficult process, and every drop of winemaking knowledge in Wendeng is hard-won." Yu Haixian said. The technicians told the author that the purpose of such a strict koji treading organization system is to tread high-quality koji blocks. The most important thing about treading koji is to make the koji block compact. On the one hand, it is to reduce the breakage of the koji block during transportation, and more importantly, the compactness of the koji block directly or indirectly affects the microorganisms that breed in the koji.
The mold used for making koji blocks is in the shape of a brick, which is also the result of decades of experience accumulated by Yiyang Wine Company. Yiyang people believe that this is the best geometric shape. After years of experiments, they determined it based on the viscosity of the surface, the need for evaporation of koji water, the need for heat dissipation, the strength of the treading, the need for koji block stacking, and the need for transportation. This ancient and traditional method of treading koji has been used by Wendeng wine school for many years. According to the technicians, they also invested in the purchase of mechanical koji pressing in the past few years, but the effect was not ideal. Stepping on koji is a feeling and an experience that cannot be achieved by machines. In a sense, the more traditional and ancient it is, the more vitality and attraction it has. After the koji blocks are formed, they are sent to the koji room for cultivation. In the closed koji room, microorganisms begin to multiply and emit heat. The increase in temperature accelerates the evaporation of water, causing the temperature and humidity in the entire koji room to rise. As soon as the author followed the workers into the koji room, a wave of heat hit him. After staying in it for only a short while, he was already sweating profusely. Master Liu, a shirtless worker, told me that the cultivation temperature of Wendeng Jiuqu can reach 50~60℃. This is the best temperature for making koji.
There are more and more people who understand wine, which is great!
There are not many wineries in Shandong that honestly use grain to make wine.
To be honest. The most cost-effective and well-reputed Wendenxue should be the three-star Wendenxue. It was also very popular back then, and there were too many fake four-star wines. After so many years, the three-star wines are basically sold out. The ones sold on the market should be new ones. The expensive ones are over a thousand. To be honest, who can afford a bottle of wine over a thousand drinks Wendenxue?
Wendenxue wine is the main product of Wenden Winery. In the past, when the old wine was made, grain was collected and stored, and the sour aroma of the lees could be smelled from a distance. It may be that it was later restructured into Yiyang Winery. Not a truckload of grain is transported in a year. It is conceivable that everyone can guess whether it is brewed with pure grains with their feet. As for the wine, I really can't say anything good about it, not to mention Wuliangye or something like that. It can't even be compared with Caoyuanbai and Aochun on the prairie. Shandong doesn't have any famous liquors. Qinchi, Kongfuyan, etc., are also silent after a period of hype, not to mention the little-known Wendengxuejiu. As for sales, in the past few years, it was available in all local restaurants. In recent years, people's tastes have become more and more picky, and locals don't drink much, let alone outsiders. In short, this wine is just average, not good, nor the worst, it can only be said to be mediocre.